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Tat Thanh
packs her hiking boots and heads for Sapa before attempting to trek to
the highest point in Vietnam
How would it feel to be
standing at the summit of Fansipan – the “roof of Indochina”?
It’s a question I’ve often wondered so when I hear that my colleagues
from EVN Telecom are signing up for a trek to the top of Vietnam’s
highest mountain I decide my moment has come.
At a height of 3,134
metres, Fansipan shadows the mountainous province
of Lao Cai in the northwest of
Vietnam.
September to March is the best period to climb Fansipan as usually the
weather is dry, so the trails are not too muddy or slippery and the
streams are also relatively tame.
Experienced trekkers claim
that the end of February is the best time as thousands of wild flowers
come to bloom. We set off on our expedition over the New Year’s holiday.
After a week of preparations we come equipped with gloves, boots and
provisions. Proud patriots we also have our Vietnamese-flag T-shirts.
The train to Lao Cai leaves Hanoi Railway Station at 9:30pm – the
journey is 330km but no one seems daunted.
In fact everyone is in high
spirits. It’s New Year’s Eve and we’re ready to party! We drink
champagne, laugh and sing as we wait for the stroke of midnight. But
eventually we get some sleep, aware that we will arrive in Lao Cai at
dawn. After having breakfast in a small restaurant in Lao Cai, we drive
up the winding road that leads to Sapa, where we check into Trung Nguyen
Hotel on Thach Son street.
The hotel is in actual fact a serviced house, so the rates are cheap.
We pay only VND150,000 ($8.5) for four persons per night.
Helping us on our trek will
be a number of porters. Each porter earns VND 200,000 ($11) for one
tour. They help carry luggage, cook and – most importantly – make sure
we stay on the right track and don’t tumble down the mountainside! Most
of the porters in the area are either H’Mong or Dzao. However, they
speak Vietnamese very well.
We drive 33km from Sapa to a
forester’s station on the top of Ton Stop mountain pass, which is the
starting-point of our adventure at a height of 1,900m above sea level.
We set off full of determination. The scenery is awesome though where
clouds cover the mountain it is cold and dark. Bending my head as I walk
into the wind, I only stare at my own feet. But when the clouds move
across a brilliant sunshine pours through to reveal the mountain’s
natural colour and wondrous beauty.
I spot a small clearance in
a forest
of Fujian cypress
trees. Our guide explains this is where a group of trekkers previously
lit a fire to cook lunch but they neglected to extinguish the fire
carefully and the fire razed a number of trees in the area. We decide to
stop at noon after reaching a height of 2,200m. We look down the
mountain to see how far we’ve come and reassure ourselves we’re making
good progress.
Our next stop is at a
height of 2,900m. Darkness is starting to fall. Our porters help us
collect firewood and dry leaves, pitch up our tents and after a fire is
lit we prepare dinner. After a long day, I head to bed ready to sleep
long and hard but the intense cold is unsettling. Luckily for those more
susceptible to the cold, there is a small hut, which keeps out the
elements better than a tent. A few of the women and I decide to abandon
the tents and settle into the hut for the night.
Buoyed by the thought of
conquering Fansipan, we rise early in morning and devour a breakfast: a
rather cold egg noodle soup. The last leg is actually the hardest. We
pass through a bamboo forest, which is ominously reminiscent of the
forest in the film of House of the Flying Daggers. The trees apparently
spring up so densely that locals have to cut them down to keep the only
path to Fansipan’s peak clear.
The trail becomes muddier,
darker, and more slippery. There is no rain but a thick mountain mist
hangs in the air. The slope becomes increasingly steep. My leg starts to
ache and tiredness starts to overwhelm me. At certain sections we use a
rope ladder to climb uphill. One by one people start to give up. Soon
we have lost eight members of our team. At times I’m tempted to so the
same but I somehow find the energy to continue.
Eventually, after three
long hours we arrive at the top. When I spot the landmark to indicate
the pinnacle my legs at first buckle under me but then I jump for joy
and scream at the top of my voice. We hug each other and then braving
the cold we take off our overcoats top reveal our Vietnam-flag T-shirt. A
bottle Champagne
is opened and we toast our success before taking pictures.
I know we cannot linger for
long. It’s bitingly cold and my fingers are now completely numb.
Nevertheless I feel elated. I have conquered the roof of Indochina! As we make our way down the mountain, I
am still buzzing with excitement.
Back in Sapa we reward
ourselves with hot medicinal baths – a Dzao speciality –to ease our
aching bones. We can’t stop talking about the scenery, our feelings, and
how this achievement is an inspiration that will help us to find the
strength and resolve to overcome any ‘mountain’ that we face on the road
of life.
We also remind each other
we couldn’t have done it without the kind porters, who always urged us
on with a smile and said, “Come on! Keep going! The peak is not far, I
know that you can make it!”
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